EV
01 / 04 Moisturisers
AQUREA 20 MOISTURIZING CREAM
AJANTA
100G
The Science of Moisturisers
AJANTA AQUREA 20 MOISTURIZING CREAM (100G)
Drug Facts
INGREDIENT · HUMECTANT, HYDRATING AGENT
Sodium Hyaluronate
also known as Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt
Function
May help support skin hydration and moisture retention through hygroscopic properties
How it works
Sodium hyaluronate is a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid that may help bind water molecules in the stratum corneum and dermis, potentially enhancing skin hydration. Research indicates it can penetrate the skin barrier when formulated with appropriate adjuvants and amino acids. Studies suggest the ingredient maintains structural stability during gastrointestinal transit and may exert antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects when combined with complementary actives. The molecule's ability to modulate CD44 receptor expression has been shown in in vitro keratinocyte models.
⚑ For Indian skin (Fitzpatrick IV–VI)
Sodium hyaluronate has been shown to support hydration in deeper skin tones where transepidermal water loss may be elevated, particularly relevant in Kerala's humid tropical climate where excessive moisture can paradoxically lead to dehydration due to osmotic stress. Research indicates the ingredient does not increase melanin synthesis or phototoxic potential in Fitzpatrick IV-VI skin types. However, formulations should be carefully evaluated as combination products (particularly those with amino acids or cross-linked derivatives) may require stability testing under tropical humidity and heat conditions to prevent degradation. Clinical consideration should be given to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation risk with injectable formulations in darker skin types, requiring careful injection technique and avoidance of trauma.
Effective concentration
0.1–2 %w/w (optimal ~0.5%w/w)
Clinical evidence
Research indicates that sodium hyaluronate combined with amino acids (glycine, alanine, proline) may enhance moisturizing performance compared to mono-component formulations. Studies suggest this combination strategy may reduce dosing frequency and improve hydration efficacy in skin rejuvenation applications.
Not specified in abstract Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2026. PubMed →
Research suggests that hyaluronic acid derivatives demonstrate high structural stability across gastrointestinal stages and may exert superior antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. Studies indicate efficient intestinal barrier penetration without increased enzymatic degradation, with potential upregulation of CD44 receptor expression in keratinocytes.
Not specified in abstract Foods (Basel, Switzerland). 2026. PubMed →
Studies indicate sodium hyaluronate can be successfully formulated in hydrogel systems with complementary ingredients such as xanthan gum, demonstrating adequate physical and microbiological stability over extended storage periods. Research suggests these formulations maintain tunable rheological properties suitable for dermal administration.
Not specified in abstract Gels (Basel, Switzerland). 2026. PubMed →
Pairs well with
Glycerin · Propylene Glycol · Amino Acids (Glycine, Alanine, Proline) · Xanthan Gum · Panthenol · Niacinamide · Ceramides · Lactic Acid
Avoid combining with
High concentrations of alcohol (may cause osmotic dehydration) · Strong chemical exfoliants at high pH (may impair hyaluronic acid stability) · BDDE cross-linked derivatives in certain formulations (safety considerations)
INGREDIENT · LIPID HUMECTANT AND BARRIER REPAIR AGENT
Ceramide NP
also known as Ceramide NP, N-Palmitoyl Phytosphingosine
Function
Stratum corneum barrier restoration and transepidermal water loss reduction
How it works
Ceramide NP integrates into the stratum corneum lipid matrix, restoring barrier integrity and reducing water permeability through formation of organized lamellar structures. Research indicates that ceramide NP-containing membranes demonstrate significantly lower water permeability compared to other ceramide species such as ceramide NS. The ingredient may modulate skin microbiome composition via restoration of stratum corneum hydration and lipid content, potentially supporting immune regulation. Studies suggest ceramide NP exhibits superior retention in the stratum corneum compared to aqueous-based moisturizers, with ceramide content measurable up to 24 hours post-application.
⚑ For Indian skin (Fitzpatrick IV–VI)
Ceramide NP is particularly valuable for Fitzpatrick IV-VI skin types, which frequently present with compromised barrier function and increased transepidermal water loss secondary to environmental stressors and genetic predisposition. Studies suggest this ingredient may support barrier restoration without increasing postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) risk, as the mechanism is purely lipid-based restoration rather than inflammatory modulation. In Kerala's tropical humid climate with high ambient moisture, ceramide NP formulations demonstrate enhanced retention and efficacy; however, formulation vehicles should be carefully selected to avoid occlusive effects that may precipitate folliculitis in high-humidity environments. Research indicates ceramide NP is particularly beneficial in managing sensitive skin presentations common in Indian populations, where barrier dysfunction frequently coexists with melanin-rich skin phototypes.
Effective concentration
0.5–3 % w/w (optimal ~1% w/w)
Clinical evidence
Research indicates that ceramide-containing emollients may improve barrier function and modulate microbial communities through restoration of stratum corneum lipids, hydration, and immune regulation. Studies suggest these effects may help relieve symptoms associated with sensitive skin conditions.
Authors not listed Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. 2026. PubMed →
Research suggests that ceramide NP-containing formulations, when combined with complementary ingredients, may support management of sensitive skin conditions. Evidence indicates a holistic skincare approach incorporating ceramide NP may be beneficial in clinical practice.
Authors not listed Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2025. PubMed →
Molecular dynamics simulations indicate that ceramide NP-containing stratum corneum lipid membranes demonstrate significantly lower water permeability compared to ceramide NS-containing systems. Research suggests ceramide NP is associated with healthy, unimpaired skin barrier function.
Authors not listed Molecular Pharmaceutics. 2025. PubMed →
Studies indicate that ceramide NP-based creams retain ceramide in the stratum corneum for extended periods (up to 24 hours post-application) compared to aqueous-based creams. Research validates improved ceramide delivery and retention with handheld confocal Raman spectroscopy assessment.
Authors not listed Journal of Biophotonics. 2025. PubMed →
Research suggests that topical application of ceramide-containing moisturizers may improve barrier function by increasing stratum corneum ceramide levels. Studies indicate ceramide absorption into the stratum corneum may enhance overall ceramide profiles and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Authors not listed Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2025. PubMed →
Pairs well with
Panthenol · Centella asiatica extract · Cholesterol · Free fatty acids · Phytosphingosine · Niacinamide · Hyaluronic acid